Istanbul-in one photo

 It's difficult to believe that two years have passed since I was in Istanbul.

For many years Paris had been my favourite city and maybe it would still retain this position if I had not had to cancel my trip there this year. Now, however Istanbul is up there as my favourite, closely followed by Barcelona which I visited for the first time last year.

Istanbul, by all accounts, has always been an amazing city. How could it not be given its location -half in Europe and half in Asia? It has an amazing vibrance and multicultural mix. 

I took this photo of a very busy pretzel stall located at the end of the Galata Bridge in one of the busiest spots in the city. There is a lot going on. Locals are buying, tourists are passing by. It is a very colourful scene. For me it's the best photo I took in Istanbul and one of my favourite photos from the many I have taken over the years. It's Istanbul in one photo.

The photo above is the uncropped full frame . It was taken with my Leica Q2 with its 28mm Summilux lens. For this shot the 28mm lens was the ideal focal length.

Bagan-at sunset

 

Another oldie from the library.

Bagan in Central Myanmar is definitely the most extraordinary place I have ever visited. It is a huge plain littered with thousands of temples ranging in size from very small to huge.

Sunset at Bagan is spectacular. We travelled on a minibus to a large temple and then we, and a large number of other tourists, had to climb up a very steep set of tiers to a flat platform to watch the sunset. The climb was precarious, actually downright dangerous. Not only was it very steep with no handrails but many of the spectators were young and only too willing to push people aside to get the best viewing spot and then when the sun had set to get down and onto to their bus.  I remember it well.

It was very hot and the air was very dusty which made the sunset yellow. 

I had exhausted the battery on my Leica X1 earlier in the afternoon but fortunately I had my backup Canon G9 with me and I used that to take this photo.

 

A question of balance.

Am extraordinary sight, at least to my eyes, two women walking through a crowded street in a small town on the Irrawaddy Delta in Myanmar carrying large loaded baskets on their heads. Their upright deportment would surely qualify them for a fashion show catwalk job?

 Leica Q DNG photo processed in Lightroom Classic.

More Myanmar

 My dip into my photo library for unseen photos from my travels in Myanmar, posted earlier in the week, has been so well received that I've had another look into the library and found more worth a look.

These were all taken on my last journey to Myanmar in 2018 when we travelled on a riverboat through the Irrawaddy Delta region. It was an area not often visited by tourists because many places are only accessible by boat. 

It was strange visiting a remote village on an island and finding a large crowd of locals rushing out to stare at the small group of white people disembarking just to see their humble village. 

Despite their very obvious poverty they all were only too willing to give me a smile as I took photos.

The photos were all taken with my Leica Q. DNG files processed in Lightroom Classic. 

Poor Myanmar

 I'm still the walking wounded.  It's three weeks since my total knee replacement and I am progressing but it cannot be rushed. So I am still largely housebound and still feeling very sore with a very swollen knee. As Rosie keeps reminding me cutting a leg open and cutting out the worn out parts and replacing them with new parts which are cemented into place is major surgery and the body is traumatised. So expecting it to right itself in a couple of weeks is not realistic.

So I entertained myself this afternoon by looking at my library of photos taken in Myanmar in 2012. That was a time of great optimism in Myanmar and the place was humming and tourists were being welcomed for the first time for many years. Sadly the good times only lasted for 8 years when the military reverted to their old bad habits and seized total power again. Now the poor country is a basket case.

A civil war rages on and Myanmar is a tragedy. Such a pity as it is a beautiful country with beautiful people,

I visited Myanmar three times and the photos below were all taken on the first visit in December 2012. I cannot even remember having looked at these particular photos before. I had a newly acquired Leica X1 then and the quality of these photos is a testament to the amazing capabilities of that little camera. By today's standards the specification is vintage but it punches way above its weight in terms of image quality-even today.

 DNG files taken with the Leica X1 and processed in Lightroom Classic.

 

 

 

 

Harley-Davidson and all that

I have just read an interesting story in Newsweek on the decline of Harley-Davidson .  see Harley woes

I count myself as being very lucky to have  established, and then run, the Harley-Davidson sales company in Australia during the brand's halcyon day from 2002 to 2008. It's been downhill for the brand in the USA, and most other markets, after the GFC of 2008.

In hindsight one odd aspect of my time at Harley is that I took no photos. I've been a very enthusiastic photographer for over 60 years but there have been times when my enthusiasm wained and my Harley years were one such period.

The sad thing is that Harleys, and Harley riders in particular, make excellent subjects and if I'd taken advantage of the opportunities at the time I'd now have a great portfolio of Harley rider shots.

There is only one photo from my Harley years and that was taken at a Harley event in Atlanta, Georgia in 2002.

It was taken with my Leica M6 on slide film using a 35mm Summicron lens.

 

 

 

 

So you think you can park?

 My knee replacement surgery is only 13 days away and I am counting the days. On one hand I am nervous about the operation, and at my age that's probably normal, but on the other hand I am desperate to escape the awful, incessant pain.

Being largely housebound, and in any case it is pouring with rain today, I am not in a position to do any photography, apart from photographing the two cats that is.

 

Looking through my huge photo library for something different to post on the blog I came across these two photos I took in Paris in 2011. 

No 'hands free' auto parking systems for the Parisiens!

 

 

 

Wonderful memories

 

 
 

With my 80th birthday very close I  recently took some time to look at what I was doing ten years ago just after I passed another milestone, my 70th birthday.

 

One of my many regrets over the years is that I did not keep a journal of my days. It would be wonderful now to be reminded of the thousands of flights I had made and the amazing places, and the not so amazing places, I have visited over the years.

 

 What I have found is this wonderful account of a road trip I made with friend Craig in August 2016. This trip would not be possible today. For about 5 years the Oxley Highway has been under repair and often closed for periods due to landslides.The speed limits everywhere have been reduced and  no overtaking double white lines have been painted over many section of the route. The traffic is also much heavier and my 911T Porsche has gone to a new owner. However I have no regrets- it was fun whilst it lasted. Enjoy the read.

 

 

I have owned my 1971 Porsche 911T for 8 years. In that time it has done quite a few day trips of a few hundred kilometres but only two really long road trips in 2009/2010- one to the Philllip Island Historics over the Snowy Mountains into Victoria and the other to compete in Speed on Tweed at Murwillumbah in northern NSW.  Since then I have not done any long 911 road trips and that's a real pity.

Back in 2009 early 911 Porsches were valuable but in the intervening time values have gone through the roof and it would be easy to think of my car now as a valuable part of my retirement superannuation and to treat it as a garage queen. Indeed that sadly is what is happening to so many early longnose pre 1974 cars. They have become collector's pieces. For me this is sacrilege. I am sad every time I see an early 911 in a museum or a pristine example on display. These cars were built to be driven hard and to cosset them or to deposit them in a museum is to miss out on one of the great driving experiences.
Yes they are a vintage car by today's standards but they are so involving. I don't get into my early 911- I put it on. I engage with it. The sports seat grips me tight. I sit close to the wheel . The steering,clutch and brakes are not assisted. They all require physical effort and input. The car feeds back to me. I can steer it at high speed on the throttle. The engine revs so easily and it keeps revving and the sound it makes is wonderful. The response from the Weber carbies is instantaneous. The car does not have a radio -I could not hear it if it did and anyway I removed it and the aerial to save weight. If I had to choose between my 911T and the latest 991 Porsche it would be a no brainer.  I would take my T in a flash.

Friend, Craig Duthie, the owner of a 1973 2.4 911E, and myself have been talking about doing a backroads New South Wales road trip for months. The dates had to fit in with Craig's work roster,we needed dry weather and it had to be in the cooler months. We hit the jackpot this week. The planets aligned. Craig had a clear three days and although it is the tail end of winter the weather forecast was glorious- cold nights and warm, sunny days.

The preparation for my car was basic-a good clean and a check of the tyre pressures. I had the Porsche tool roll out of my 2.7, two microfibre cloths, some glass cleaner and a litre of Fuchs 20-50 oil and a funnel.
The T is running a 2.2 motor on Weber carbs fitted with K&N air filters and a 901 gearbox with a Rennshifter quickshifter. Despite this you could not call the gearshift smooth or quick. I don't know the full spec of the engine as it was rebuilt -but then not used-many years before I bought the car in 2007 but those who drive it say that it feels "lusty" for a 2.2. The car runs its original 14" wheels. High performance tyres are almost impossible to find in 14" locally so I run it on Michelin XM2 195x70 rubber. Nothing special but they perform well enough for me -I like the car to be a little loose and the early cars were set up for less grippy tyres. I had 911 SC front struts, rotors and calipers and a bigger master cylinder fitted soon after I acquired the car to improve the front end stability and the braking performance. It has a firm, hard brake pedal which I like and the brakes are superb.
With the warm weather forecast I was able to drive in a polo shirt and shorts for the whole three days so my personal bag was pretty small. But of course I had to throw in a camera- in this case the Leica X Vario.
Craig lives in Newcastle so we met on the New England Highway west of Newcastle. The first leg was upto Morpeth where we stopped for coffee then upon glorious open roads miraculously free of traffic upto Dungog where we came across the first of a number of road repair sections.

First of quite a few road works on road to Dungog.Odd colour of sky due to tinting of windscreen

 

From Dungog we went onto Gloucester.  For the first few kilometres the road out of Dungog is in bad condition-full of patches-but further on there are long stretches in very good condition. The speed limits out on these country roads are high and we were scrupulous in getting straight down to the posted 50 or 60kms limits when we passed through small villages.
We had lunch in Gloucester -the locals excelled themselves in using English place names in this area - there is Gloucester, Morpeth, Stroud and a Stratford and a River Avon. Gloucester has a nice vibe about it -a relaxed prosperous country town set in beautiful country.
From Gloucester we headed on the Bucketts Way to Taree.My favourite Porsche driving roads are those with long sweeping open bends and there were plenty of them on the route we travelled and almost no traffic. Oh joy.

Relief stop on Pacific Highway north of Taree. Craig's car at the front.

 

It was almost too good to be true. The pain started when we joined the Pacific Highway at Taree and headed north. There was a long contraflow in place north of Taree - and the road north of Port Macquarie to Kempsey is a goat track with massive road construction taking place on either side. It was a long dreary procession not made any easier by frequent plod deployments in Highway Patrol cars, radar guns ready and desperate to nab any recalcitrants who exceed the 60 kmh roadworks speed limit by a couple of kilometres per hour. Old Porsches do not enjoy chugging along at low speeds for long periods and the T needed to clear out the soot by the time we cleared Macksville.

We finally arrived at our overnight location, Nambucca Heads, late afternoon. I have driven past Nambucca Heads many times but have never ventured off the Pacific Highway and into the town. The town - although it barely qualifies as town -looks pretty scruffy but the riverside and beach areas are pretty. The hotel Craig had wisely booked in advance was very pleasant and the nearby fish restaurant, Matildas, really did serve very fresh local fish. Too often these small coastal towns have restaurants claiming to serve local fish but either it has come from the Sydney Fish Markets or they don't know how to cook and they disappoint but Matildas is a class act. Which was just as well as the eating options in Nambucca Heads otherwise looked pretty dire.
Properly fed and watered with a couple of Stone and Wood beers we headed to bed early -it had been a very long drive-471 kms.

Looking out towards Pacific through Nambucca Heads

Early morning Nambucca Heads.

 

On the wednesday morning we headed out early for the big drive. Up a new section of the Pacific Highway for a few kilometres and then  on the Waterfall Way to Bellingen and then up onto the plateau to Dorrigo. The drive through the World Heritage rainforest area upto Dorrigo is beautiful. Out of Dorrigo we were on our own on a fantastic driving road-128 kms on the plateau to Armidale. Up here the countryside is empty-just an occasional sheep farm and there was virtually no traffic again..

Photo op on the high country out of Dorrigo.

 

We stopped for coffee at Fusspots at Ebor- a tiny settlement a long way from anywhere.  The coffee was great. Here we were in a tiny place - and they had a proper coffee machine and obviously great beans. As we sat in the sun reflecting on our good fortune the Fusspots cat made him/herself comfortable in a sunny spot right next to us.

Outside Fusspots,Ebor.

The Fusspots cat.

Out of Ebor the speedo in my car started making a howling sound and the needle was swinging around. Over the next 30 mins the sound got worse and the speedo case was vibrating. We pulled the speedo out and disconnected the cable. From then on I was relying on Craig to be my speedometer.
We drove round the outskirts of Armidale and then down the New England Highway for a few kilometres and then across country to Walcha for lunch and yet another refuel.

Then it was onto what I reckon is one of Australia's greatest driver's roads - the Oxley Highway down to Wauchope and then Port Macquarie -164 kms of superb road and scenery including a downhill stretch of 45kms of amazing tight winding road through forest which makes the Nordschleife Nurburgring look like the Mulsanne Straight. Oh joy. And just three vehicles along the way. Double joy. I have never driven so hard in my life. The car just flew-I was up and down the gears and on and off the brakes. Out on the high country the speed limit is a very welcome 110 kmh even on the single lane road.There are roos about but usually not during the day although we passed a massive one dead beside the road. Hit him in a 911 and you would have a horrific accident.There are no hard shoulders on the road-the edge is the edge -and it's not a place you would want to breakdown or have an accident with so little traffic and no mobile phone signal.

I made one half hearted attempt to take a driving shot but it was way too dangerous

Waterloo (sheep) Station

Happiness is an early Porsche and the open road.

The wonderful Oxley Highway-sun and an empty rolling road-164kms of pure driving pleasure

A stop for roadworks on the Oxley.Glorious scenery and the road gang guys were friendly and giving thumbs up to the cars.I am sure that we would have got a different response in modern Porsches. 

 

On the wonderful winding section I kept the car very tight through the bends so as to avoid the centre line in case an RV, caravan,logging truck or a motorcyclist was coming up dangling over the line but in fact we saw only one vehicle -a RV -going the other way and just one cattle truck going in our direction and we soon passed him on one of the very few straights.

By the time we pulled into the tiny settlement of Long Flat after the winding descent we were tired and the cars needed to cool off. It was late afternoon and the locals and their huge dogs had come in from their paddocks for a beer at the Travellers Arms pub. It was like arriving in the backwoods in Montana-deliverance country. Never has a beer tasted so good and the locals were chatty and friendly.

Outside the Travellers Arms, Long Flat

A thirsty local

A "friendly" local.

They like big dogs around Long Flat

The drive through Wauchope and into Port Macquarie was a drag. We were tired after the 408 km run and the cars were hot and it was rush hour and nowadays the traffic in boomtown Port Macquarie is heavy.
An evening in the pub in Port Macquarie meeting up with local,John Forcier,a fellow early 911 owner. Then down the Pacific Highway back to Terrigal the next morning-a very noisy and boring 317 km thrash using the tacho as my speedo.
The car was still running like a dream at the end of the trip. It had used just half a litre of oil but many litres of fuel. Economical it isn't but then I wasn't driving like I was on an economy run.

What a fantastic trip and what a fantastic country. Thanks Craig for being great company and thanks to Porsche for an amazing car. And a particular thanks to the weather -it's not a trip I would want to do on wet roads.

Still spinning like a top - the 2.2 motor waiting to have its oil checked after the 1600km trip.

The carpet weaver

 A photo from my Leica Akademie trip to Morocco last October. It has been published on the blog previously in colour but I recently converted it to monochrome using Nik 8 Silver Efex and I feel that it is stronger in monochrome. It was taken with my Leica Q3 43

 The photo was taken in Tangier on the very first day of the trip. A small group of us wandered out from the Hotel De France looking for photo opportunities. 

It was Sunday morning and most shops were only just opening but by ducking up a flight of steps off the road to the medina we came across a square which is home to a number of very small and rather dingy carpet weaving workshops. We're not talking $3000 Afghans here, just everyday rugs and carpets. 

The old weaver in the photo seemed pleased to let me take his photo. and I'm pleased with the result-particularly the lighting. Today I have just entered it into the portrait category of a major local photocomp.

I was prompted to take another look at this photo after looking through a book-A lifetime of Looking-by Jane Bown. She was a photographer for the UK Observer Sunday newspaper for many years. Her forte was portraits but she had a superb eye and photographed many significant events in the UK right through to the 1990s.

 She was verging on the eccentric and many a celebrity she was sent to photograph was confused when a small lady turned up with a battered Rolleiflex camera in a shopping bag.  Her work-almost all in monochrome-is still fresh and superb. She published a number of books and a few, including A Lifetime of Looking, are available from Amazon. 

 

Watching the whales go by.

 

This is our 6th week in our new home. It's been hectic unpacking, buying new furniture, hanging pictures and generally sorting things out. Having a seriously worn out knee has not helped but at last we are coming up for air and I have managed to take a photo from the new home for the blog.

This is the view from the deck of the apartment looking over the Haven towards the Skillion here in Terrigal. It was taken today at 4.00pm using the SL2 with the 50mm Summicron lens.

It is the middle of the whale migration season and we can quite literally see whales from the kitchen or sitting at the dining room table. You catch a patch of white water when they come up and sometimes a glimpse of a tail or body as they breach.

Whale sightings were special 20 years ago but the whale numbers have recovered dramatically and now there are literally thousands moving north in June and July up the east coast of Australia from Antartica to the warm waters of Queensland to give birth before they migrate with their calves south again to Antartica in September/October.

Of course no whales co-operated with my photo shoot but there are plenty out there.

The 9000 alleyways of Fes

 9000. That’s how many alleyways there are in the Medina in Fes, Morocco according to the tourist guidebooks.

 The  Leica Akademie Australia photo tour to Morocco which I went on last October which included a visit to the city of Fes. I spent a full day there exploring the Medina . A Medina means the old city, usually the historical, walled part of a city. I can’t vouch for the accuracy of the count but the Fes Medina is an extraordinary jumble of alleyways and lanes in which it is very easy to become totally disorientated. 

If you are lost Google maps won’t be any help because Google have not mapped the Medina accurately and anyway satellite signals cannot penetrate deep into the chasms of the Medina.

Probably the best thing about the Fes Medina, apart from its complexity, is that it is still very much a working city filled with houses, cafes, even tanneries and hundreds of vendors selling the necessities of every day living. Of course there are stalls catering for the tourists but when I was there the locals far outnumbered the tourists although I’m sure it’s different story in the peak tourist season.

The Medina threw up plenty of photo opportunities-and I was really pleased with my efforts. Below is a selection of my photos from that day wandering some of the 9000 alleyways.

 I was happy with my decision to take just my Leica Q3 43 with me to Morocco I have no hesitation in saying that the Q3 43 with its 43mm lens is my firm favourite. With its considerable heft it is not everyone’s idea of the perfect travel camera but it comes close for me.